Alexandre Plokhov Men's RTW Fall 2012

New York - Black, Black planet - With rocker Andrew Eldritch as his muse, designer Alexandre Plokhov delivered a collection full of gender ambiguity, sending out long-haired models in leather skirts, asymmetric pants and elongated sweaters, making for an aesthetic that was much too familiar.

It’s no surprise then that, from head to toe, the models were adorned in a mesh of androgynous quirks: slicked back, shoulder-length hair, tall Cuban-heeled leather boots, and heavy eyeliner. All of which helped exaggerate the baggy wool sweaters, floor-length kilts, and fold-over pants that pepper the collection.



This is all in keeping with the sinister theme Plokhov first touted with his short-lived, mid-aughts–era menswear label, Cloak. But although he’s clearly moving away from the constructivist, military look that Cloak championed , the asymmetrical tailoring and almost entirely black palette will always be instantly recognizable.