Paris Menswear Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012/2013 -Friday

Kris Van Assche during the Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 

The Dutch designer Kris Van Assche took two "cliches" of menswear -- a banker's suit and labourer's overalls -- as his starting point, combining them to create a look part white- part blue-collar.
Slim-fitting black and grey jackets and crisp white shirts were paired with giant-legged pants in bold boilersuit blue, cropped at mid-calf over low, chunky laced boots.
"Workers need protective gear, but now with the crisis it is the bankers who need that protection," Van Assche told reporters backstage following the show at the historic Beaux Arts art school on the south bank of the Seine.


The designer acknowledged an "obvious" Japanese influence -- a trend at the Paris shows so far - visible in the wide pant cut, but also in colourful silk scarves folded neatly under the collar in lieu of ties.

Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent during the Autumn-Winter 2012/2013 

At Yves Saint Laurent, copious lashings of leather -- used from head to toe in hats, coats and gloves -- gave the urban-feeling collection, dubbed "Sex and Money", an ultra-luxurious edge.

The French house's designer Stefano Pilati used leather on a jacket lapels or to highlight pockets. Draped leather collars wrapped the neck and wool overcoats were reinforced with leather shoulder patches.
Brazilian designer Gustavo Lins also said he aimed to "refine the male wardrobe", injecting slinky knitwear and athletic touches with the focus squarely on comfort.
Fitting his models in full view, Lins showcased his covetable autumn collection in a historic courtyard in the Marais quarter.Fine-ribbed, draped cardigans in charcoal, black or blood red were paired with beautifully tailored grey suit pants and jackets in light or slate grey, black and deep blue.
Likewise, Lins layered a light halter-neck sweater over a slinky long sleeve black top, with suit pants and a strong-shouldered charcoal overcoat.